Shepherd Conquers Charlies Bunion, GSMNP

Shepherd’s hike to Charlies Bunion in the Great Smoky Mountains actually began when he hiked the Sleeping Bear Dunes in Michigan this past summer.  Initially, only my son, Chad and I had planned to hike in the Smokies but after trekking across Sleeping Bear Dunes he was convinced his son, Shepherd could manage any day-hike we could throw at him. I wasn’t totally convinced, because you see, Shepherd is only nine years old. I had never seen a kid that young handle 6, 8 or 10 miles in a day. So, before we set out, I had decided in my own mind that it was alright if we turned back after 2 or so miles. I enjoy hiking, so it really wouldn’t matter if we didn’t make it to Charlies Bunion.

Our first thought was to hike to Ramsey Cascades, an 8 mile hike (roundtrip). We (my son Chad, his son Shepherd, and I) began early enough out of Pigeon Forge and arrived at the Ramsey Cascades Trailhead (TH) about 9 am. Unfortunately though, signs informed us near the TH that the trail is closed.  Wondering if it is just a temporary closure we doubled back to stop at Sugarlands Visitor’s Center (at 9:50 am) and learned that a fallen tree has destroyed a footbridge on the trail to the cascades.

We decided then to hike to Charlies Bunion as it was already 10 am and wouldn’t take long to get to the TH. It was on my original list of potential hikes. My son had never been to this unique place, though this would be my fourth time. The first time I hiked to Chariles Bunion was in October of 1963 or 64. I with my friend, John Toomey and my brother Richard. We were new to hiking then, equipment taken was crude and weighted too much. Packs consisted of ruck sacks and handheld duffle bags. We also took a large two-burner Coleman stove. I suppose we looked like a “comedy of errors.” We carried too much and equipment was crude by today’s standards. We spent the night at Ice Water Springs Shelter with a Boy Scout Troop. Well, actually, we spent the night in the clearing in front of the shelter. In those days, there was no permit system to stay at shelters in the park. In the morning we also had an encounter with a bear at breakfast. We then hiked on to Charlies Bunion, which turned out to be very disappointing, as we could not see a thing. It was foggy and cold. It was just as well, I did not have a camera with me anyway.

 The second time I hiked to Charlies Bunion was in September of 1993. I carried a camera on that hike, but took no photos, again because of fog. I should have taken a few pictures, even if they were only of the sign at the side trail, just to document the lack of a view.

The third time I was at Charlies Bunion was in October of 2005. (I am including several images from that hike in this post, as it was an exceptionally clear day.) Most of the photos in this post are from my fourth visit.

Back to my account of Shepherd’s first hike. We drive up about 13 miles to Newfound Gap (US Highway 441) and park in the parking lot. The Trailhead is on the northeast end of the parking lot near the large stone podium where President Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicated the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on September 2, 1940. There is also a plaque at the site commemorating John D. Rockefeller.

We are at the Charlies Bunion Trailhead (TH) at 10:30 am. We take a few photos of Chad & Shepherd and Poppa & Shepherd. It is a beautiful day. Although it wasn’t cool, it wasn’t hot. Temperatures are in the 70’s. There were a few clouds.

The trail sign tells us the Sweat Heifer Trail is 1.7 miles; the Boulevard Trail is 2.7 miles. Our trail map adds that Ice Water Springs Shelter 3.4 miles and Charlies Bunion is 4 miles. Beyond that is a view of the Sawteeth. It is 5 miles. The trail northeast is rocky.

An hour later (11:30 am) we arrive at Sweat Heifer Trail. Photos of the AT and Sweat Heifer Trail. To this point it is 95 percent uphill. Shepherd has marched the AT without complaint. This was where I thought things would go downhill. I was wrong.

At noon (12:00 am) we arrive at the Mount Le Conte Trail. The trail to the Jumpoff is .3 miles up that trail. The Jumpoff is a popular spot with great views. Mt Le Conte is 5.3 miles.

After a little more hiking (12:15 am) we arrive at Ice Water Springs Shelter (just off the AT). (Photos of the shelter, Chad and Shepherd Keck.) We eat lunch and leave at 12:50 pm. From its junction with Sweat Heifer Trail, the AT is about 65 percent uphill. About 2 tenths of a mile beyond the shelter is Ice Water Springs.  (If you pick-up water here, filter or treat it before you drink.)

At 1:20 pm, we arrive at Charlies Bunion, a gigantic protruding rock just below the summit of the ridge. It is 100 yards off the AT to the left. The AT continues to the right. The rounded knob holds dramatic views. On a clear day it has a great vista to the northeast of Mount Le Conte, Brushy Mountain, Porters Mountain and Woolly Tops Mountain. We spend 20-25 minutes at this scenic site soaking-in the view. A fellow hiker takes photos of Poppa, Chad and Shepherd Keck. I take a number of scenic photos.

We discuss with Shepherd hiking on to the Sawteeth, about a mile beyond Charlies Bunion. Shepherd does not object nor does he ask to go back to Newfound Gap. And so, we hike on to Dry Sluice Gap Trail on right, arriving there about 1:55 pm.

We continue to hike along the The Sawteeth for about a mile. We find a clearing along the trail and look back toward Charlies Bunion and Mt. Kephart. (We take photos looking back toward Charlies Bunion.) From there we hike back the 5 miles we came.  We rest a few times, re-visit Ice Water Springs shelter, catch our breath, drink water and snack on nuts, raisins and a few other things.

At 4:40 pm we arrive at Newfound Gap and I also take a few photos of Shepherd. I also photograph the ridge that Newfound Gap Road takes south into Georgia. It is a beautiful sight.

I began this blog post skeptical of Shepherd making it all the way to Charlies Bunion. At the trailhead I reflect on how this kid hiked 10 plus miles and did it without complaint. He was conversant. Enjoyed what he saw enjoyed being with his dad and grandfather. Given his age and it was a warm day, he never mentioned the heat, his feet, legs, becoming thirsty, or being hungry.  I want to hike with this kid again. It was an amazing day in the mountains. It was an even more amazing day with my son, Chad and grandson, Shepherd. We enjoyed having Shepherd come along. I won’t “short” this guy again. He is a “tall” man among hikers. I am excited about watching Shepherd grow to be the man he will become.

Scripture:

Psalm 139.13-16 – God created our innermost being and knew us before we were even conceived.

Luke 2.52 – Jesus grew in wisdom and stature and in favor with God and people.

Philippians 1.6 – God will complete His work in you.